A Match Made in Eclectic Fashion: The Jean Paul Gaultier and KNWLS Collaboration
In the ever-evolving world of fashion, where creativity often finds its expression in defiance of conventions, the collaboration between iconic designer Jean Paul Gaultier and the dynamic duo behind KNWLS, Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, emerges as a force to be reckoned with. As the world awaits the global release of their visionary 40-piece collection, it becomes evident that this partnership isn't just about fashion; it's a bold statement that challenges the status quo and redefines the very essence of contemporary style.
Gaultier, renowned for his audacious approach to design in the '80s and '90s, brought a punk-inspired, unapologetically provocative perspective to the fashion scene. "It was loud and punk and it poked fun at fashion," reflects Knowles. Despite the undeniable complexity and artistry of Gaultier's creations, they were often dismissed as "vulgar" and "oppressive." This spirit of rebellion resonates deeply with KNWLS, which encountered similar criticisms when it emerged from Fashion East in 2019.
Their unique approach to fashion, characterized by criss-crossed crop tops, sinuous bodycons, and waist-snatching bustiers, raises intriguing questions. Does this aesthetic, often described as a high-octane femme fatale for the Instagram age, reinforce the very mechanisms it seeks to destabilize? Critics have argued both sides of the coin. But for Charlotte Knowles, it comes down to how the clothing feels on the body—an emotional response that transcends mere appearance.
However, amidst the dangerous cut-outs and low-rise pants that reveal the hard angles of their chosen woman, the absence of larger-bodied models often enters post-show conversations. Alexandre Arsenault offers insight, acknowledging the complexities and expenses involved in creating tailored and intricate pieces. "So it needs to feel authentic," he emphasizes, debunking the notion that using a famous plus-size model in a random outfit is a genuine representation of inclusivity.
In a world where established houses have seen a decline in curve models, Knowles and Arsenault remain steadfast in their commitment to authenticity. "We're always checking our tags on Instagram, and so many curvy girls feel empowered in the brand, so I don't think the customer feels excluded. We're going to do what we can," Knowles adds.
What sets this collaboration apart is not just its bold fashion choices but also its expansion beyond the realm of groin-slicing undergarments. Charlotte Knowles shares her evolution as a designer, stating, "At first, it was all about layering minuscule bits of fabric. But as I mature, I want the wardrobe to develop with me. I want trousers and knitwear and coats." The collaboration introduces a maniacally-cropped biker jacket with pale pink fuzz rupturing through its seams—a silhouette that transcends both the Jean Paul Gaultier and KNWLS archives.
Gaultier's iconic marinière print, rendered in bleached plaid across skin-tight minidresses and lithe flares, serves as another nod to the brand's classic tropes. Fashion enthusiasts will recognize the tattoo-illusion leotards, borrowed from Gaultier's spring/summer 1994 collection, and reimagined with wailing serpents and crystalline love hearts, as well as industrial barbed wire.
Influenced by women on social media, KNWLS has created a brand that exudes the allure of hot and hardcore It girls—a style admired by the likes of Bella Hadid, RosalÃa, Kylie Jenner, and even Malia Obama. These endorsements underscore the brand's growing success.
As a brand poised between emerging and established, KNWLS navigates a hostile fashion landscape, facing challenges from Brexit to COVID-19. Their determination to learn the intricacies of the fashion business and compete with larger brands exemplifies their commitment to survival. Their hand-braided corset, which took nearly a year to create, symbolizes the brand's dedication to pushing boundaries outside commercial restrictions—a piece that harkens back to the glamor and showmanship of a bygone era.
The Jean Paul Gaultier x KNWLS collaboration isn't just a fashion collection; it's a testament to the enduring spirit of rebellion and the power of creative authenticity. In a world where fashion is constantly evolving, this partnership stands as a shining example of what happens when daring minds come together to redefine the rules and celebrate the extraordinary in fashion.
Written by Alex Pal (@palopitos)
