Costume designer Khadija Zeggaï played a pivotal role in bringing the characters of Ira Sachs' latest film, "Passages," to life through her meticulous outfitting choices. With a keen eye for detail and a deep understanding of her craft, Zeggaï transformed clothing into a visual language that resonates throughout the film.
A Collaborative Vision
Zeggaï and Sachs had previously collaborated on the film "Frankie," but "Passages" presented an opportunity for them to craft a unique aesthetic that seamlessly merged the painterly with the personal. Zeggaï's affinity for working with auteurs like Sachs, who approach cinema as an art form, allowed her to fully explore her creativity. As she puts it, "It's the most important thing for me: to work with people who can be moved by everything."
Creating a Visual Language
For Zeggaï, developing a visual language for the film began with gathering inspiration. She and Sachs delved into a diverse range of films, from French classics by directors like Maurice Pialat and Jean-Luc Godard to American and German works by Rainer Werner Fassbinder. These cinematic influences sparked discussions about what inspired them in each film and how those inspirations could be incorporated into "Passages."
Adapting to the Actors
While Zeggaï could envision her costumes based on the script, the actors' unique sensitivities played a significant role in shaping her designs. Getting to know Ben Whishaw, Franz Rogowski, and Adèle Exarchopoulos allowed her to tailor the clothing to each actor's personality. Zeggaï emphasizes the importance of actors being able to feel the clothing they wear, a crucial element in bringing characters to life.
A Fusion of Freedom in Costume
Sourcing Zeggaï enjoyed immense freedom in sourcing costumes for "Passages." Ira Sachs' open-minded approach allowed her to explore various avenues, resulting in a film that exudes a sense of openness. Her costume choices spanned from designer brands like Agnès B and Acne Studios to thrifted treasures and Japanese-inspired pieces. The film's eclectic wardrobe mirrors the creative freedom Zeggaï and the team enjoyed.
Defining Characters Through Costume
Costumes played a significant role in defining the characters of Tomas (played by Franz Rogowski) and Martin (played by Ben Whishaw). For Ben's character, Zeggaï aimed for simplicity and understated elegance, while for Franz, extravagance and uniqueness were key. Zeggaï's ability to blend contrasting elements, like Franz's inexpensive striped pants with seemingly expensive items, added depth to the characters.
The Power of Knitwear
Throughout "Passages," characters find solace and protection in knitwear, which snugly fits the body without formality. Zeggaï's love for knitwear shines through in the film, and it serves as a visual representation of comfort amid emotional turbulence.
Adèle's Transformation Through Costume
Adèle Exarchopoulos, who portrayed a character undergoing significant transformation, collaborated closely with Zeggaï. Adèle's generosity and her interest in the materials used in the costumes enriched the creative process. Zeggaï found it fascinating to work with actors who actively sought their character's essence through costumes, making the dressing process a seamless and rewarding experience.
Khadija Zeggaï's work in "Passages" demonstrates her ability to infuse depth, emotion, and character into clothing, showcasing the integral role of costume design in storytelling. Her collaboration with Ira Sachs resulted in a visually captivating film where every outfit contributes to the narrative, making "Passages" a testament to the power of meticulous costume design in cinema.
